We stepped out of the car in Dover, England and the wind sliced through my thin jacket. After nearly 2 years in the UK, I still hadn’t figured out that a sunny day did not equal warmth. We climbed toward the entrance of Dover Castle and as we entered, I turned to look across the English Channel. The view was vast, clear and across the horizon, the tiniest glimpse of the French coastline poked through the sea misty haze.
The castle has a rich history, dating back to William the Conqueror’s improvements on a pre-existing Anglo Saxon fortification in 1066. King Henry II continued to expand the grounds in the late 12th century when he rebuilt the fortifications that would protect England from sea invaders. The castle boasts unique concentric battlements and one of the largest surviving Keeps in all of England. A complex maze of tunnels were dug underneath the castle during the Middle Ages which were expanded during the Napoleonic Wars in the 19th century to house dozens of battalions brought in to defend England from French invasion. During World War II, these tunnels were again expanded to include a field hospital and to house the command center for the Dunkirk invasion. The tunnels are starkly mid-century compared to the rest of the castle which distinguish it from other castles in England. Recently, the Great Tower, originally constructed in the 1180s by King Henry II, has been reconstructed as it was when first built. The rooms have been restored to provide an exciting look at the king’s court during this time.
We left the castle in the early evening heading toward the famous White Cliffs, just in time to drive to watch the sun drop slowly behind the battlements. We reached the National Trust area just as the guard was closing the gate. In a rushed questioning of where else we could go to see the cliffs, he kindly pointed us down the road to where all the locals go, an abandoned coast guard outlook at the end of the dirt path. The outcropping was deserted and as promised, the sun gleamed off the water, dazzling us with light shining against the chalky cliffs. We could hear the waves crashing down below as the wind whipped around us. There was no better place to be.
Dover Castle is located in Dover, Kent, approximately 2 hours drive southeast from central London. The site is accessible by train and bus as well. The castle and grounds are open year round, opening at 10am and closing at 6pm in high season, 4pm in winter. Tickets are $21 (£13.40) for adults and $11 (£6.70) for children. Guided tours of the wartime tunnels are provided free of charge but with a timed ticket system. The last tour departs one hour before closing.
